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T-Fal Actifry Test Drive

Perfect French fries with just a spoonful of oil? We’re hopeful, but skeptical.

tfal-actifry

The T-Fal Actifry promises to make French fries with practically no fat. Sounds too good to be true, right? Unfortunately, we found out that it is.

Gadget name: T-Fal Actifry

Price: $299.95

How it’s supposed to work: You add 1 tablespoon of oil and 2 pounds of cut potatoes and turn it on. It heats up and uses a rotating paddle to slowly push food and oil around a heated nonstick-coated chamber while you watch through a clear lid that stays moisture-free for easy viewing. (Cue the “oohs” and “aahs.”)

How we tested it: We used the Actifry to prepare three of our favorite fried foods: French fries, chicken nuggets, and sweet potato chips.

How it actually works: As promised—but incredibly slow and with subpar results. The fries were less crisp and flavorful than those cooked in a pot of bubbling oil: The exteriors of thicker batons were soggy and the interiors parched, while thinner-cut spuds had a texture reminiscent of frozen fries. Meanwhile, chicken nuggets needed nearly half an hour in the fryer—twice as long as in the oven—and a batch of sweet potato chips ranged from floppy to burned.

Drawbacks: See “How it actually works” above.

Good to know: It’s a huge machine—about the size of a 6-quart slow cooker.

My favorite part: The machine produced French fries with a hands-off approach (set it for 30 minutes and walk away), was easy to program, and boasts a dishwasher-safe insert.

Overall: We appreciate the concept of healthier, less-messy frying, but for now we’ll stick with occasionally indulging the old-fashioned way.

In what foods do you never sacrifice fat for flavor?

About the Author: Lisa McManus

Lisa McManus is senior editor in charge of all equipment testing and ingredient tasting stories at Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country magazines, and writes testing and tasting features for Cook’s Illustrated. She joined America’s Test Kitchen in 2006, after working as a newspaper food editor, and magazine and newspaper journalist for many years in Boston, New York, and California. She is a graduate of Brown University and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism. Her husband, Hugh, is a rocket scientist, and they have two sons.

One Comment

  • Bob

    I bought one of these, and had really great results! The other test you didn’t do was using Ore-Ida Frozen Fries. I prefer the shoestring type, and these require no additional oil. The Acti-fry gives me crispy fries in about 25 minutes, with a really eaIsy cleanup. If you really like fries, but can’t do “deep fried,” this is a really good product. I also had really good results using fresh cut russet potatoes and the recommended 1 Tbls of oil (I use Peanut Oil). Don’t know why you had problems with it. Sweet Potatoe fries did ok, i think you had probelms because of the “chip” cut.

    You can buy this fryer from Bed-Bath-Beyond with their 20% off coupon for about $200

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