Growing up in Mexico, I knew freshly made tortillas would always be on the table. There was a tortilleria in every neighborhood; this one food is so integral to the Mexican diet that there were protests when the cost of a kilo of tortillas went up 2 pesos. Even when we moved to Texas, if we wanted good tortillas we’d get them from across the border.
But I no longer live just 15 minutes from the border, and the supermarket bagged tortillas are closer to Frisbees than real, fresh tortillas. Luckily, making them at home is far easier than people realize. It has a short ingredient list and an easy-to-make, very forgiving dough, and for equipment you just need a tortilla press and a griddle (a cast-iron or nonstick skillet will also work).
Tortillas are also easy to troubleshoot: If your first tortilla has cracked edges, add a bit more water to the dough. If your first one sticks to the griddle, you can let the dough sit uncovered for a minute to let it dry out a bit. But the real trick for soft, pliable tortillas is to let the tortillas steam inside the cloth once they come off the griddle. And my last tip: The best fresh tortilla is the one at the bottom of the stack.
STEP #1 GATHER IT
STEP #2 ▼
Tortillas have a very basic ingredient list: masa harina, warm water, and a little salt. You can find masa harina in the international aisle of grocery stores or near the flour. Tortilla presses (we use an 8-inch press) are available online for less than $20. For the press, cut open a small zipper-lock bag along the two sides, but not the bottom, so that it hinges open, then place the bag inside your press with the hinge facing the back. The bag will keep the dough from sticking. Line a large plate with a clean kitchen towel and dampen a few paper towels to put over the bowl of dough to keep the dough from drying out. Finally, start heating the griddle over medium-high heat (cast iron is the classic choice, but any griddle will do).
STEP #2 MIX IT
STEP #3 ▼
Because of tortillas’ simplicity, it’s important to get the proportions right. I like to use 1 cup water and ¼ teaspoon salt for each cup of masa. This combination should give you a dough with the texture of Play-Doh. Sometimes the humidity (or lack thereof) can affect the dough; if the first tortilla you cook cracks around the edges and is dry, work a tablespoon of water into the remaining dough. Or if the tortilla sticks to the griddle, leave the dough uncovered for a few minutes to dry out.
STEP #3 ROLL IT
STEP #4 ▼
For perfect taco-size tortillas, I break off about an ounce of dough (if you want a slightly bigger tortilla, increase the amount of dough to 1½ or 2 ounces). Roll it into a smooth ball (it’ll be about the size of a walnut) and transfer it to the lined tortilla press. The smoother the ball, the more even your tortilla will be, so roll with care.
STEP #4 PRESS IT
STEP #5 ▼
Press the tortilla gently and evenly until it is about 1/16 inch thick and 5 inches in diameter. Gently peel back the top layer of the bag and transfer the tortilla to your hand.
STEP #5 GRIDDLE IT
STEP #6 ▼
Transfer the tortilla to a hot griddle. You know the tortilla is ready to flip to the second side when the edges curl up enough to grasp them with your fingertips and the bottom is spotty brown. If you’re nervous about grabbing a hot tortilla with your bare hands, you can use a spatula to flip it. (You’ll just look like less of a seasoned tortilleria pro.) If you’ve heated your griddle properly, your tortillas should cook in about three minutes total, 90 seconds per side.
STEP #6 COVER IT
The griddle step actually only cooks the outside of the tortilla. To finish cooking and soften the tortillas, as soon as they come off the griddle, transfer them to your kitchen towel–lined plate and cover them up. The heat from the growing stack of tortillas will gently steam them until they are soft and pliable. If you’re patient, let the whole stack rest wrapped in the towel for at least three minutes after you’ve finished griddling. If you’re not, simply grab from the bottom.
Find other great DIY recipes in The America’s Test Kitchen DIY Cookbook.
About the Author: Tai Sierra
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Thanks for this.
I do have a zinc-plated cast iron press, but we haven’t had much luck with it. I do know that we’re using less water than you, so maybe we’ll have to try some more.
However, I have noticed that the upper plate of the press seems slightly concave? Is this normal or indicative of a poor press?
the instructions say that the griddle should be medium-high heat. What temperature would that be? My griddle has temperature settings. Thanks!
I don’t have a press..not much demand in Australia..I’m going to try baking paper with a circle drawn on it for sizing,
top and bottom, and a wooden board with flat palm and pressure.
Hi JustHughes, most good presses I’ve seen have flat plates—perhaps you’ve got a defective press. Adding more water is a good idea; some cooks I’ve met prefer a wetter dough which does make them easier to press but I’ve found that it also makes them harder to get off the plastic liner and to the griddle in one piece. Good Luck!
Hi mailbag, when, I make these at home I use my cast iron griddle and have whipped out my infrared thermometer to check the temp. Anywhere between 500 to 600˚F works well. The tortillas will just cook either faster or slower, and if there is a nonstick coating on your skillet you should avoid super high heat. Temperatures as low as 425˚F will work—the tortillas just need to sit a little longer. The more practice you get, the faster and hotter you can cook.
Hi mcgovern, good luck with your wooden board. I hope it works. I’ve also used heavy books. Experienced cooks (grandmothers) can pat these flat just with their hands but it’s a hard skill to master.
Fresh tortillas are so good and I like the rustic look.
I just started making these a few weeks ago. The first batch were good, but I learned I needed to add more waste the next time. I don’t have a press yet, so I rolled them, not as pretty and round, but still delicious. I want to try tamales next, but have not found many descriptive enough recipes for the dough.
We had a lot of fun making these last night. However, they came out more tough than tender. Could we have cooked them too long/too low a heat? Or not enough moisture when the were stacked in the cloth? We made them a bit in advance and put them back in the oven to warm. Advice/ideas appreciated!
So excited to see this!! I’m a California girl exiled to Massachusetts, and the sorry state of Mexican food around here is making me crazy! Can’t wait to try this, to go along with some pork chile verde.
I’m cooking for a family tomorrow and doing my version of pork carnitas/burnt ends with garlic, oranges, coca cola and rub. Fresh avocado, lime, cilantro and fine chopped white onions and shredded cabbage with califonia style Pepper Plant hot sauce. If you haven’t tried this stuff, seriously, go to any lengths to get it.
These fresh tortillas look like the topping on the cake.