I grew up in Boston, so I was steeped in Yankee food traditions from an early age. My family picked blueberries in the summer and apples in the fall, regularly cooked from the Boston Globe Cookbook, and ate franks and beans and B&M brown bread for supper almost every Saturday night. Given my New England upbringing, you might expect me to have a militant allegiance to Real Maple Syrup, but the fact is that I’m not a huge fan of the stuff.
Sure, the flavor of bona fide maple syrup is great. But for me, it’s just too runny. It doesn’t sit on top of your waffles like that glistening pool of syrup in the picture on the Aunt Jemima bottle. Instead, it immediately sinks in, transforming your waffles into limp, sodden sponges. Why bother going to the trouble to make your waffles crisp, your pancakes light, if you’re just going to douse them with something that will instantly sog them out? And worse, because of its thin consistency, maple syrup doesn’t linger on the palate, so you have little time to enjoy its wonderful flavor.
Enter maple cream.
I first encountered this lovely product (also known as maple butter) at a Vermont sugarhouse I visited one March. As I passed through the little gift shop, I spied a stack of small jars labeled Maple Cream next to a plastic tray of soda crackers topped with a humble-looking beige paste. It was an uninspiring display, but—because I am constitutionally incapable of resisting a free sample—I paused for a taste. The sweet spread was deliciously silky, almost buttery, and it packed a powerful maple wallop.
Curious about how much butter and cream this luxurious concoction contained, I checked the ingredients listed on the jar: pure maple syrup. Nothing else. I immediately snatched up three jars of maple cream and headed for the checkout. The next few weeks found me spreading it on just about every bread-type item I consumed—and often eating it by the spoonful, straight from the jar.
Maple cream is just maple syrup, cooked to the soft-ball stage, cooled to about 125 degrees, and then beaten with a spoon until very fine crystals form, turning the syrup into a thick, pale, opaque mass. (I like to add a tiny bit of vegetable oil to keep the foam down during boiling, and I add a pinch of salt because I think most things that are very sweet benefit from salt, but those are optional.) Making it is simple, but it would be dishonest to describe it as easy. The challenge lies in the beating of the cooled syrup, which requires strong arms, a sturdy grip, a resolute nature, and—if possible—a similarly equipped assistant to share stirring duties when the going gets tough.
Step #1 COMBINE IT
Step #2 ▼
First, pour the syrup into a medium saucepan, and add (if desired) the oil and a pinch of salt.
Step #2 BOIL IT
Step #3 ▼
Heat the syrup over medium heat without stirring or disturbing it in any way. There’s nothing to do except wait at this point, but take my advice: Don’t get over-confident and walk away. If you do, the syrup will take offense at your cocky attitude and it will boil over just to teach you a lesson. I usually lower the heat as the temperature approaches 232 degrees, as it can overheat very quickly, resulting in maple candy rather than a creamy maple spread.
Step #3 MAKE A BATH
Step #4 ▼
While the syrup is heating, set up an ice bath (keeping one eye on the potentially treacherous syrup, of course) by putting a clean medium saucepan inside a large bowl full of ice. It’s not necessary to add water, since the ice will begin to melt as soon as you pour the hot syrup into the saucepan.
Step #4 HEAT IT
Step #5 ▼
Boil the syrup until the temperature reaches 235 degrees. (I usually continue to heat and monitor the temperature for 60 seconds after the thermometer first hits 235 degrees, just to be sure the entire contents of the pan are precisely at the desired temperature.) Then pour the hot syrup into the saucepan in the ice bath.
Step #5 COOL IT
Step #6 ▼
Let the syrup cool until it reaches about 125 degrees. The exact temperature is not as important this time, so don’t fret too much about it. At this point, remove the saucepan from the ice bath and start stirring with a wooden spoon. I like to think of this as a marathon, not a sprint; speed isn’t as important as maintaining a constant, steady pace.
Step #7 STIR IT MORE
Step #8 ▼
Over time (anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes), the syrup starts to lighten in color; this is the crystal structure starting to form. My arm is usually getting a bit tired at this point, but I’m almost there.
Step #8 STIR IT EVEN MORE
Step #9 ▼
When the maple cream starts to lose its shine and takes on the texture of natural peanut butter and the color of tahini, stop stirring.
Step #9 JAR IT
Work quickly here, because the maple cream remains pourable for only about 30 seconds. Using a rubber spatula, scrape it into a clean jar.
About the Author: Andrea Geary
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I will have to make this. Simply because I LOVE maple syrup and my competitive nature was piqued by the thought of wrangling a food that may take offense at my cocky attitude and is potentially treacherous.
Is it possible to use a KitchenAid to make this? I don’t think my should will allow me to make it otherwise.
Go for it, jgh – show that maple syrup who’s boss!
Hi, i.db.g – I would bet that the big maple cream producers use a mixer, but I didn’t do that for two reasons: 1) I was afraid that the small amount of syrup would not engage sufficiently with the mixer paddle, and 2) I feel the need to EARN my maple cream -that’s probably my New England stoicism showing, there
Great. Another irresistible way to get sugar into my diabetic body. Ah well, all things in moderation…
I’m totally swooning over this maple cream and since I bought a quart of maple syrup while in VT last month, I now have another great use for it! How much cream did the 3 cups of syrup yield in the end?
My lovely friend from Maine sent me 2 quarts of grade B from her trees. I have been wanting to make this but I’m waiting to see if anyone uses their hand mixer. OR I could get my sons to do the stirring
Hi, Tara – the recipe yields a little less than 2 cups.
Hi, charscreations – you obviously know your maple! The more intense flavor of grade B is perfect for this. What a shame that the name implies that it is somehow inferior!
It’s a teeny tiny step between maple cream and maple candy, which is pretty much what we made. I couldn’t hang with the stirring, so I ended up putting it on the kitchen aid stand mixer but in a smaller bowl. Not sure if that’s what made it go to candy or if I heated it up too much (thought the instant read thermometer said 235). Good thing both are delicious!
Hi, renegade – I think the crystal size is what makes the difference between maple cream and maple candy. Were the crystals in your “maple product” coarse like sugar? If so, there may well have been a problem with the mixing being insufficient or interrupted, so you ended up with candy. If the end product had a smooth texture but was, on the whole, firmer than you had intended, you might have overheated it just a smidge (I have done this).
As you say, both are tasty ways to experience pure maple flavor. If you are tempted to try again, maybe try to recruit a helper so you can switch off on the stirring.
Warning – potential dumb question ahead – What could you do with this?
Hi Andrea – Well, it’s the next morning and its divine! I made gluten-free muffins to spread it on and my son had it on toast. I think it’s just a little firmer, not courser, than i would have intended, like refrigerated peanut butter (only the maple cream is not refrigerated) I think the mixer worked fine. Maybe I did overheat it. And next time, just like the heating, suggestion you make, I think I would use the mixer for the first part of mixing and once it starts changing color, switch to by-hand mixing to bring it to the final consistency I want instead of wearing myself out for the first half of the mixing.
Does this need to be refrigerated? What’s the shelf-life in the jar? Just made it…. holy cow, it is DELICIOUS!!
Hi, Suzanne – It’s good, right? Concentrated maple flavor, and that luxurious texture, too! It will last for one month at room temperature, or for up to six months under refrigeration.
Hi Andrea, will make this post haste. Grade B used to be a well kept secret and did cost less years ago, because it was the end of the year and often had a strong flavor (which makes it killer for cooking), then all the cooking people started talking about how great it is and now it not only costs the same, but here in NH you may have to look for it a little
Hi, j_c!
Ugh – I’m sorry to hear that the glory of Grade B is no longer a secret. I hate when that happens, but I guess we couldn’t keep it to ourselves forever. Luckily, any grade will work in this recipe.
I can’t wait to make this! One question: do I need to boil the jar after filling like you do with jams?
@deidra1974 – I have not tried water-processing maple cream. If I plan to save it for more than a month, I store it in the fridge.
Andrea– thanks so much for answering my question about shelf-life! (You never know if you’ll get an answer from a writer at a website– was so excited to check back and see the info.). After taking some of the maple cream to a couple of holiday parties, I now how requests out the wazoo for the recipe. I know what I’ll be making for Christmas gifts this year! Thanks again for posting such a detailed account of the process, including the helpful photos.
I tried this today had problems with the maple syrup boiling over. Was that because I used a four quart sauce pan? Due to the boil over issue I could not get the maple syrup to the soft ball stage at 235. I took it off at about 225 and proceeded with the recipe.
I used a hand held mixer instead of the spoon as my decrepit neck and shoulder would protest too much. Though the syrup did get quite thick, it never achieved the soft peak look in the photo. I think this is because the mixture never reached 235? Still yummy though and not a drop will go to waste in this house!
@stevens – for this volume, a 4-quart saucepan should have been fine, especially if you added a bit of fat to keep the foam down. However, as noted above, this concoction does have a tendency to boil over and make a sticky mess if not watched with an eagle eye! At 225 degrees, there might still have been a fair bit of water in your syrup; I think that probably accounts for the loose consistency of your finished product.
Great to hear that the hand mixer works. Enjoy!
My first try didn’t turn out (didn’t get thick) as I let it cool too much (my theory) but the 2nd try…WOW…it didnt last a week! Do you think I could salvage the first batch by reheating it & trying again? If so what, if anything should I add back to it? Thanks for the pics, very helpful
I’m glad you persevered and had better luck with your second batch.
This is one of the few recipes that give you the opportunity for a “do over,” but you pretty much have to start at the beginning. Gently melt the cream over medium low heat, stirring constantly. If it seems reluctant to revert to a syrup, add 1 tablespoon of water and keep stirring until it submits to your will. Then go back to step 1, but omit the salt and oil if you added them the first time ’round. Make sure you get the syrup hot enough before you remove it from the heat. In my experience, that’s the most common cause of the maple cream failing to set up. Good luck!
I tried twice. The first time, the syrup over cooled and I got a grainy mess which was still tasty, but grainy. you absolutely must add a bit of oil because it can be very very hard to get a correct temp reading with all of the bubbling. And the second time I did not use an ice bath to cool it down. I poured it into a cool pan and just let the pan sit on a rack until it cools. Came out beautifully and stirring by hand was much easier than I thought!
@Damali – you’re WAY more patient than I am. I tried it without an ice bath, but I found it took a lot longer. Depending where you are in the country, though, you might be able to stick it in a snowbank.
Thanks for your tips. Glad it worked out for you.
Well, my “do over” made a really great FUDGE!!
Has anyone tried to process this in a heat bath (to extend the shelf life?) or do you think it would melt back down and then lose it’s buttery consistency? I would love to try this, I sell jams and have many people asking if I do maple or apple butters. Any thoughts on the bath? I would hate to waste the syrup…
Will sugar-free maple syrup work?
@ stear – I haven’t tried water processing this. I suspect it would melt right back down and you would have some very food-safe pancake topping.
@misterwayne – since maple cream is all about the controlled crystallization of sugar (and sugar crystals are pretty capricious), I’m afraid sugar-free syrup is probably a non-starter.
Now, if we could find a way to crystallize “Water, Sorbitol, Natural and Artificial Maple Flavor, Cellulose Gum, Sucralose (Splenda Brand), Potassium Sorbate and Sodium Benzoate to preserve freshness, Citric Acid, Caramel Color, Acesulfame Potassium, Zinc, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), D-Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B5), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Cyanocobalamin (Vitamin B12)..,” we might be on to something!
This looks incredible–I had no idea this could be done but I love the idea of spreadable maple.
I’m actually going to try to can it, too, but am only going to try with a couple 1/4 or 1/2pnts instead of the whole batch, and think that max of 5 minutes will do the trick. But, it may need to be stirred once opened. fingers crossed.
And total ditto on the aggravation of soggy pancakes/waffles!
@wannaboverachiever – Excellent! I’ll be very interested to hear how it works out for you.
One thing to note here: Maple cream must be heated to 22 F above the boiling point of water to achieve proper texture. Before making this great recipe, one should ascertain the boiling point of water using a clean pot and digital thermometer, then add 22 F for the final temperature of the syrup. The boiling point changes slightly from day to day depending on atmospheric pressure, so test immediately before making your Maple Cream.
For example, I just finished making a batch, and my boiling point was 209 F, so I heated the syrup to 231 F. Don’t go any higher than 22 F above boiling point, or your maple cream will be the consistency of cold butter.
What if I dont have a digital thermometer?