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Make Chewy Sugar Cookies with Bridget

Move over, chocolate chip—there’s a new favorite cookie in town.

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Here’s your chance to cook with the cast! Make the featured recipe with us and comment on your experience below—we’d love to hear how it goes. Our cooks will answer any questions you may have, too.


8/05/2011 Update: Bridget has picked a favorite photo! Take a look to see who won the tiara.


For a chance to win an entire Season Three 2-DVD set of Cook’s Country TV autographed by host Christopher Kimball, make this week’s recipe and email a photo of your completed dish to contests@americastestkitchen.com by Thursday, Aug. 4. Bridget will pick her favorite snapshot and name the winner on Friday, Aug. 5. Good luck!


Let’s talk about Miss Congeniality. You know, the pretty pageant gal that’s always voted the nicest one of the bunch, but has no hope in heck of winning the crown and sash. Well, I think of a sugar cookie as the cookie world’s Miss Congeniality. On the façade it’s pleasant and sweet but lacks the panache of Miss Oatmeal Raisin, Miss Peanut Butter (damn those sexy cross-hatchings!) and, of course, the odds-on favorite—Miss Chocolate Chip. And without all of the smoke and mirrors, this cookie’s flaws are revealed.

Sugar cookies are a streamlined confection—usually made of butter, sugar, flour, leavener, and maybe salt. But, according to the proportion of those ingredients, the cookie may bake up crisp, crumbly, or cakey. And that’s just the textural problems. We haven’t even mentioned the 500-pound gorilla in the room: These cookies are sickeningly sweet. You may as well dip your hand in the sugar bowl.

So how do we get around these flaws? Is it possible to create a sugar cookie recipe that’s super-chewy, and tastes… not too sweet? And what if we could nix the mixer and make the dough by hand? And what if we could gather the countries of the world and sing “Time in a Bottle“?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHDt2t0oO7g

OK—the test kitchen shot for two out of three, and came up with one amazing sugar cookie. The dough is so easy to make and by the end of the day you’ll know all about fat. Woo-hoo! I love fat.

(Want more? Watch this recipe and others from the Sweet Endings Season 11 episode at America’s Test Kitchen TV)

MELT IT

I mentioned that we’re making this recipe by hand (if I didn’t, I am now), and we’ve developed kind of a quirky mixing method—stay with me. First up is sugar, and we’re using 1 1/3 cups. Now, I’m not going to even try to tell you that it isn’t a lot because it is, but without this amount of sugar the cookies get rather tough. It’s what we add to the sugar that’s going to help cut the sweetness. And in this case, we’re using a little cream cheese. Ever notice that cream cheese frosting is less sweet than buttercream? Same principle here: The tangy cheese balances and cuts through the sweet sugar. I love this trick.

WHISK IT

To get these two kids together, we’re going to pour over 6 tablespoons of melted, unsalted butter and whisk it all up until it’s nice and smooth. By using melted butter, we’ll get slightly chewier cookies, but more importantly, we’re not going to need a mixer to beat in the butter, and the resulting cookies won’t have that aerated, cakey feel.

MIX IT

Anyone who’s ever dieted knows that butter is mostly saturated fat. If we were to use all butter in the recipe, the cookies would bake up chewy and bendable (since the butter is melted), but as they sat around the butter would set up, making the cookies less chewy.  That makes sense—let melted butter sit on your countertop (put it in a bowl first, please) and eventually it will become solid. So to keep these cookies chewy, we also have to mix in a fat that’s always fluid (unsaturated), mild in flavor (to let that yummy butter and cream cheese shine through), and available—vegetable oil to the rescue.

SALT IT

Of course we’re not done mixing; we’ve got one egg, vanilla, and a little milk to add (without that last one, the dough is thicker than Play-Doh.) Then we can stir in flour, baking soda and powder, and a little salt. And I implore you: Don’t leave salt out of this, or any, baking recipe. It really enhances the other flavors.

SHAPE IT

Hooray, time to shape those cookies! We’re going to make two dozen, and excuse me now while I become nit-picky (worst expression ever—think about it). I’m going to ask that you divide the dough into 24 pieces before you shape them; each piece will measure about 2 tablespoons. Now you may be cursing me, but later on, when every single cookie bakes up to even and glorious perfection, you can send me a thank you card.

ROLL IT

Now roll up those pieces into balls, and roll each one in more sugar; that will give it a crunchy coating. Place 12 on a parchment-lined baking sheet and then smoosh each one down with the flat bottom of a drinking glass. However, don’t go hog-wild—these rounds should measure about 2 inches in diameter—you’re not making tortillas here. A final flourish of more sugar sprinkled over the top, and these puppies are ready for baking.

BAKE IT

Put one of the cookie-filled baking sheets on the middle rack in a 350-degree oven. Now we’re going to practice the ultimate in restraint: baking each sheet one-at-a-time. It really is the best way to ensure evenly baked cookies. Don’t worry—the first batch won’t be in there long. Somewhere between 11 to 13 minutes should do it. (How exact can we be?) The cookies should look just set and a little darker in color around the edge. Don’t bake them longer though, or you’ll get crisp, hard cookies.

EAT IT

After an infuriatingly long time on a cooling rack, these cookies are ready to eat. Go ahead and take a bite—they’re super-chewy right? And what’s that? They don’t taste like the sugar jar? They’re actually delicious, buttery, tangy, and rich? Best cookie you’ve ever had? Well, I’ll be darned—it looks like Miss Chocolate Chip is going down…

About the Author: Bridget Lancaster

Bridget Lancaster is the executive food editor for new media, television and radio. She joined the Cook's team in 1998 and is an original cast member of both America's Test Kitchen and Cook's Country television shows, as well as a co-host for the America's Test Kitchen Radio program. She also serves as the lead instructor for the America's Test Kitchen Cooking School.

19 Comments

  • WendyP

    I’ve made this recipe several times. Sugar cookies are my husband’s favorite and these are the best! Super easy to whip up. Love that they bake up soft. Perfect in my book!!!

  • christinar

    These are, by far, my favorite sugar cookies as they aren’t overly sweet. Easy to make and they come out perfect every single time.

  • morrell1970

    I love love this recipe. It is easy and these cookies are exactly what they say- chewy sugar cookies!

  • Shelley

    Bridget, would it work if I used one of the European-style cultured butters like Lurpak or Plugra? I love the buttery taste of them. Thanks!

  • cheryl

    These came out perfectly! Crisp edges, perfectly chewy centers, exactly as advertised. We will carry some over to the new neighbors this evening and we’re sure they’ll love us forever! My youngest says, “Always make THESE sugar cookies!”

  • valerie

    I made these sugar cookies for the first time this past weekend and they were so easy and came out perfect and delicious!
    I followed your directions to the letter and they smelled so good that we ate them for breakfast. I brought some over my sister’s house and everyone was trying to guess which “citrus” flavoring was in them. They didn’t believe when I told them there wasn’t any! These are definitely going into my regular cookie rotation! Thanks for sharing!

  • thehappycao

    OMG! I made these for a bbq, and someone else brought Snickerdoodles using a Martha Stewart’s recipe, and guess who’s cookies were all gone by the end of the night?? YES! They were incredible, the cream cheese is genius! AH this was my first ATK recipe I’ve tried and now I’m a believer! Sorry I sound like a teacher’s pet, but they were that good.

  • BMAC

    WOW! I baked these gems last night – the dough looked oily and was worried that they would spread too much (I don’t like crunchy cookies!), despite being humid they turned out perfectly. They are so delicious and – just as the recipe states – a little crispy outside and tender inside. Wonderful job, ATK!!!

    …has anyone tried to add in some lemon zest? I bet THAT would just put these over the top!

    (I CAN’T wait for the cookbooks to arrive!)

  • elisabethswagner

    I just made these with my five-year-old… they’re cooling as I write, and if they taste as good as they look, then they’re definitely worth the work of making them! Oh, wait–they were easy to make… but no one has to know that dirty little secret! :)

  • Bridget Lancaster
    Bridget Lancaster

    Wow! I’m so glad that you all are enjoying this recipe so much. I love these cookies too, and they are in permanent rotation in my house.

    Shelley – I don’t see how using Plugra or Lurpak would cause any harm. You could always make a half a batch to see how they’ll turn out. (And devour them yourself when they turn out fabulous!)

    BMAC – Go ahead with that lemon zest – I love lemon cookies! I’d probably start at a half teaspoon or up to a teaspoon of grated zest, and mix it in with the cream cheese and sugar mixture. Let me know how they turn out.

    Talk with you guys later. B

  • Rivki Locker

    I made these cookies last night and they came out amazing. This is a new favorite for us!!!
    I used colored sugar on half of them and raw turbinado sugar on the other. Both came out perfect. The colored sugar is fun and festive – great for kids. The turbinado looks nice and homey. I love the warm color it gives the cookies, and that maple-y flavor. Hope you don’t mind my sharing the URL of my post here in case anyone wants to see what they look like with colored and raw sugar: http://www.healthyeatingforordinarypeople.com/2011/08/chewy-sugar-cookies.html.

  • Carmel

    My friend said they tasted like vanilla ice cream. They were a hit!

  • wscwong

    There’s a discrepancy between this article at the recipe. Should we bake the cookies at 375F or 350F?

  • Sharp eye! Sorry for the confusion. The oven should be set to 350F.

  • I just had the most delightfully chewy, peppermint sugar cookie at a bakery the other day and wanted to try to make some. My sister raves about this particular recipe and ATK has never failed me yet, but I’m a little hesitant about the combination of peppermint and cream cheese. Any thoughts?

  • jbabycasper
    jbabycasper

    I made half with icing and colored sugar crystals and half with out, they both were awesome.

  • phantasticme

    how would you convert a sugar cookie recipe like this into a rolled out/ cut out sugar cookie recipe?

  • hanchris11

    can you make moist funfetti cupcakes or did you already make it?

  • Christine Liu
    Christine Liu

    Hi hanchris11, not quite, but this is the closest we have; http://www.cookscountry.com/recipes/Easy-Birthday-Cupcakes/6803/

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